In the Cook Islands, craft traditions keep national identity alive
A country comprising 15 islands scattered across 850,000sq miles in the south pacific, the cook islands can feel surprisingly intimate, displaying a strong national identity. It’s a place that celebrates community through unique cultural practices, from traditional dances and age-old crafts to modern decorative arts.
Story and photographs byAdrienne Pitts
December 11, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The art of tivaevae, the colourful patchwork and appliqué that’s symbolic of the Cook Islands, is a craft that’s flourished since the introduction of quilting by Christian missionaries in the 19th century. Traditionally, women would gather in groups — often outside — to work on their tivaevae and enjoy the companionship of their community.
At 42, Kura Rubena Taripo (in the middle) is the youngest tivaevae artist on Rarotonga and has vivid memories of being taught the craft by her grandmother. Remiah Chanelle (right) is part of a younger generation of artists, too.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Raised in New Zealand and now living on Rarotonga, her paintings often have Cook Island vaine (women), objects or motifs as their subject. “Everything I do is inspired by the Cook Islands,” she says. “It’s my culture. I’m like a piece of furniture on this island now.”
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Tapuaetai (One Foot Island) is one of 15 islets in the Aitutaki atoll. The clear, blue waters of the lagoon are home to green and hawksbill turtles as well as eagle rays and giant clams.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Taking a koka, or ‘little adventure’, down one of the smaller side roads of Rarotonga will lead travellers inland to the mountains at the centre of the island, where sweeping ocean views give way to something that feels decidedly more Jurassic
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Growing alongside the road are fruits such as raparapa (starfruit), papaya and lemon drop mangosteen. On Saturday mornings, the Punanga Nui market in Avarua on Rarotonga sells these and other local produce, including yellowfin tuna from the back of a pick-up truck; bags full of taro root and breadfruit; and homemade batches of ika mata (raw fish salad) served in a coconut half.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Adrienne Pitts (Bottom) (Right)
There are opportunities to try unique Cook Island dishes like this across the islands, including at Avatea cafe on Aitutaki, which serves locally sourced produce on its front porch.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Weaving and fishing are two of the first things you’re taught when you’re a kid in the Cook Islands, according to Kura Happ of Ariimoana Walkabouts, with children making their own costumes and headpieces for traditional dances.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
With her partner Jacapo, Kura leads hikes from the village of Vaimaanga on Rarotonga, taking guests up along mountain ridges in the island’s interior, accompanied by their dog Mahi. The walk ends with a meal prepared by various members of the village, including Kura’s grandfather, and offers an insight into the importance of community here.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Away from the interior, the Cook Islands are known to many visitors for their beaches and tropical waters. One of the most popular spots is Tapuaetai (One Foot Island) in the Aitutaki atoll, which is surrounded by a vivid blue lagoon.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
"Have you met Papa Mike?” is a repeated refrain when speaking to anyone local about the arts and crafts of the Cook Islands. Mike Tavioni was only able to focus full time on his passion later in life but has become a revered custodian of local culture, working to conserve traditions for the islands’ young people.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
Visiting artists thrive in his open-air vananga (workshop) on Rarotonga while he turns his hand to a multitude of mediums including stone, wood and bone carving, tattooing, fabric and block printing.
Photograph by Adrienne Pitts
"My passion is the revival and continuation of traditional art, but we actually have no word for ‘art’ here,” he says. “Everything our ancestors did was functional. We make a canoe because we travel in it to another island. We carve a wooden bowl to make food and medicine in. It’s all about function.”
