The sea of sand with waves and grass instead of sea-foam.

He spent 50 days on a deserted island. Then he found a message in a bottle.

Jasper Doest spent nearly two months photographing the Netherlands’ Rottumeroog, where visitors are usually prohibited and he found a new sense of freedom.

I captured this image of dune formations on a typical Dutch autumn day, with heavy rain showers alternating with low-lying sun. When I paid close attention, I realized that no two minutes there were the same.
Story and photographs byJasper Doest
As told toCatherine Zuckerman
December 5, 2023
6 min read

The island of Rottumeroog in the Netherlands is an uninhabited wilderness heavily protected by European nature laws. In 2012 and 2013, I traveled there back and forth multiple times for an assignment, spending a total of 50 days and nights—an amazing opportunity, as visitors were usually prohibited. For much of my time there, I was alone. My job was to take pictures to help others learn about this place. But about two-thirds of the way through, a lesson emerged. It came by way of a message in a bottle, tossed from the sea.

(Learn how to take wildlife photos from Doest.)

Swarms of birds over the beach
The Netherlands’ Rottumeroog is located in the Waddenzee, a tidal wetland that connects to the North Sea. The island is a vital rest stop for hundreds of thousands of migrating birds
Dence grass patch on the narrow beach with sea on both sides.
Marram grass, also known as European beach grass, plays a crucial role in coastal protection. Its long roots help stabilize and bind sand, creating dunes that act as natural barriers against storm surges and tidal forces. 

I grew up near the Dutch coast, and Rottumeroog’s flat, open setting was familiar to me. I tried to avoid imposing my own narrative on the island, which has a sand foundation and is gradually drifting to the southeast, guided by the current. So I walked its perimeter daily, training myself to listen and watch for small changes in this landscape that was so simple, you could draw it with just a few lines.

One of my favorite spots to explore was along the shore where an old building once stood. All that remained were some half-buried bricks, among which shells and ocean debris collected. One day I noticed a bottle in the rubble unlike others I’d previously found—this one’s cap was screwed on. I opened it and discovered a handwritten note inside. In English, it said: “My name is Meike and I’m 11 years old. I have good friends and you?”

A single bird feather amidst shells
Shells create mesmerizing  patterns shaped by wind and time. 

a hand written letter laying on the beach, held down by a dead crab and an empty bottle
I found a bottle containing a letter as I was strolling  on the beach. Scouting for images on Rottumeroog was like hunting  for treasure. 

As I began writing back—Meike had given her school in the Netherlands as a return address—I tried to describe how humbling it was to be isolated in a densely populated part of northern Europe: On Rottumeroog you see only earth, water, and sand, and the wind whistles in your ears. Meike eventually received my letter, and now, years later, I am still in touch with her family. People tend to think that being alone is a bad thing. But to me it felt like freedom in every vein.

a Man is pulling a cart on the beach
During one of my last visits I realized I needed images of myself to help people understand my solitary experience. I directed this shot of me carting equipment across the beach while my assistant held the camera.
beautiful clouds in a blue sky over the beach
If you go to a place with pre-imposed ideas about it, you’ll look for something that might not be there. In the flat expanse of Rottumeroog, I learned to get out of my own way, to explore, and to let the island teach me what it had to say.
This story appears in the January 2024 issue of National Geographic magazine.