A taste of Taiwan: why Tainan, Hualien and Hsinchu are cities to savour

Taiwan, a series of small subtropical islands sat in the northwestern Pacific Ocean, is a destination known for its natural beauty. But these islands are also home to one of East Asia’s most exciting culinary scenes — one that has been influenced not only by the region's unique climate and lush landscapes, but also its rich, multi-faceted history. First inhabited by Austronesian-speaking Indigenous groups, Taiwan has acted as a cultural crossroads for over 500 years, having played host to Japanese, Dutch, Spanish and Chinese settlers. Now, Taiwan's streets sing with sizzling street food, are lined with world-class restaurants and boast dishes that cement the region's cuisine as a melting pot of ingredients and cooking techniques. 

With its spectacular street vendors and long list of Michelin-starred spots, the capital, Taipei, is often the go-to destination for food-focused visitors to Taiwan, many of whom are tagging a few days onto a longer East Asia trip. However, the country's extensive rail and bus network have made it incredibly easy to travel beyond the capital and discover some of Taiwan's lesser-visited culinary hotspots. Take the time to sample delicacies such as stinky tofu in the vast night markets of Tainan, learn about Indigenous Taiwanese culture through the cuisine in Hualien, or experience the coastal winds that make for perfectly dried persimmons in Hsinchu. There's plenty to savour in Taiwan.

1. Tainan

One of the island’s oldest cities, Tainan is a must-visit for those wanting to learn about Taiwanese history, with traditional shrines, temples and museums located around every corner. But it’s also home to a dynamic, ever-evolving street food scene, with numerous night markets, such as Wusheng Night Market and Garden Night Market, frequenting large spaces outside the city centre. 

Packed with vendors and brightly lit stalls, these night markets are the perfect place to sample some of Tainan’s signature delicacies, including oyster omelettes, swordfish stews, stinky tofu and even danzai noodles — wheat noodles in a pork and shrimp broth, topped with meat sauce. Markets’ opening days and times can vary, so check schedules online before arriving.

For those who prefer to stay central to the city, plenty of small restaurants and cafes can be found around Tainan’s historic centre, offering everything from shrimp rice to shaved ice and bubble tea. There’s even unique old-house bars that blend traditional Taiwanese tea into cocktails. What’s more, the religious nature of the area means that Tainan is particularly friendly to vegetarians and vegans, as observant Taiwanese Buddhists often opt to eschew meat, onion and garlic.

2. Hualien

Located on Taiwan’s mountainous east coast, Hualien is known as the gateway to Taroko Gorge, one of Taiwan’s most famous national parks. It’s a destination of wild, dramatic scenery, with plenty of opportunities for hiking, cycling and even surfing from its rocky beaches.

Hualien is considered by many to be the cultural heartland of the nation’s Indigenous people, thanks to their strong presence on this side of the island. This makes it an ideal spot to sample traditional dishes drawing from Indigenous Taiwanese culture. Local specialities include bamboo tube rice — made by cooking rice and pork inside a bamboo shoot — roasted wild boar, and vegetables flavoured with maqaw, a spice from the seeds of the May Chang tree that’s locally known as ’mountain pepper’. 

Visit in July to catch the Joint Aboriginal Harvest Festival, a celebration of the Indigenous communities local to Hualien. The event features a variety of songs, dances and cultural ceremonies, as well as plenty of stalls offering local dishes, seasonal produce and handmade crafts to purchase.

3. Hsinchu

Tradition meets technology in Hsinchu. This coastal city is not only the home of Taiwan’s semiconductor industry, but also the heartland of the Hakka community, a distinct cultural group that immigrated to Taiwan from mainland China in the 17th century. Here, travellers have the opportunity to visit some of the country’s premier technological institutions — such as Hsinchu Science Park and nearby National Tsing Hua University — before spending an evening at one of the city’s many izakaya, informal Japanese-style bars. 

Known as the ‘windy city’, due to its tempestuous coastal climate, it’s perhaps unsurprising that Hsinchu’s culinary specialities are often of the dried variety. Mifen, a type of vermicelli noodle made from rice, is first steamed and then dried in the winds, giving it a distinctive chewy texture. Other local delicacies include dried persimmons harvested from nearby fruit farms and Lei Cha, a traditional ground tea that forms a part of Hakka cuisine. 

Beyond Hsinchu City, travellers can visit the county’s tea farms or take on day hiking routes through Mount Egongj and Mount Niaozui. Just over half an hour’s train ride from Taipei, Hsinchu is an easily accessible alternative to the capital.